After a long 13 hour flight from San Francisco to Taipei... a two hour wait, and a short 5 hour flight on one of China Airline's new planes, with individual screens and movies for each passenger, I arrived in Denpasar, Bali! I shed my leggings, hoodie, and socks, and was prepared when the humidity in the airport hit! Some of the passageways are open to outside courtyards, with fountains and stone carvings, all covered with moss and vines. I got in line right away, and going through customs was a breeze. I picked up my bag and headed toward the glass doors leading to the outside. I scanned the eager dark faces of people waiting for passengers, until I found the smile I was looking for. My Balinese friend, Anik, and her husband Nyoman, were there as planned. After a long hard girl hug from Anik, and a shy tight hand shake from Nyoman, we stood looking and smiling and laughing at each other. It had been so long, and we'd anticipated this moment for months. Now it was real and felt as if there had been no time at all between visits.
The 45 minute drive from the busy city of Denpasar to the mountain town of Ubud was hot, muggy, and fast. The three of us talked and laughed and shared what was new in our lives, as Nyoman navigated the packed roads with ease. We shared our lane flanked by motorbikes, chickens, women walking with baskets, men carrying long strands of palm leaves, and my eyes were stinging the entire way. Anik offered me warm water and I drank it gratefully. My legs stuck to the seat and my hair blew in the warm breeze from the open windows.
When we arrived at Gusti's Garden Bungalows, a short dark man with a knowing grin greeted us! Ketut had heard I was coming, and was there waiting to carry my bags! Amazing! He is a man we befriended on our first trip, and he remembers me every time. He apologized over and over that someone was in "my bungalow!" He led me to another room that was colorful and bright, overlooking the pool and the garden. I could tell at once it would be warmer than my preferred room. He tried to turn on the overhead fan, and it chunked around in a lame manner, barely cutting the thick air. He smiled apologetically... bargaining power I thought!
I had no sooner washed my face and sat on the bed when the sky broke open with rain. I just sat and watched the huge drops splash off the gigantic green leaves by my porch and come down in sheets from the roof. I decided to forget a shower, and just went outside and stood in the rain and let it wash the sticky sweat from my body. I went in and dried off with a sarong that I had tossed in at the last minute... good thing, because the room had no towels.
I will walk around the town tonight, and just get reaquainted with the streets. In two days is an important holiday and there is evidence of preparation everywhere. More on that later!